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Key Note forecasts that the total UK market for lingerie will be worth £2.73bn at the end of 2008, representing growth of 16.5% since 2004. This is a healthy market that is dominated by new product development (NPD) and exciting activity, particularly at the high and niche ends of the market. Despite showing a strong rate of growth in 2007, which is expected to continue in 2008, the market may have been dampened somewhat by a slowdown in consumer spending on the high street, as well as a relatively flat period for price rises.

As defined by this Key Note Market Report, the lingerie market is broken up into three sectors, consisting of corsetry, lingerie and hosiery. Corsetry comprises the largest sector and has seen healthy growth over the review period (2004 to 2008), again owing to NPD and a mounting tendency among women to invest in well-fitting brassieres (bras). The second-largest sector is lingerie, in which interest has never been stronger. Women have been encouraged to buy more lingerie garments, owing to their strong fashion appeal and the fact that underwear (such as camisoles and vests) is often worn as outer wear. Women's emotional relationship with lingerie has also stimulated interest in the sector. Media interest in body shape and the means by which women can boost their self-esteem by regarding their body shape in a positive light has been reflected in increasing lingerie sales.

Overall growth in the market was actually higher towards the end of the review period, as hosiery made a come-back in terms of value sales in 2007 and 2008. This sector had seen sales falling year-on-year until this point, but the return in the popularity of skirts in 2006 — coupled with a concerted drive to introduce new products and respond to fashion trends — has resulted in an upswing in sector sales. Opaques, sheer tights, stockings and hold-ups have become much more popular in recent years, as have fashion socks and footless tights — primarily among younger women.

Manufacturing of lingerie and hosiery in the UK is still showing signs of decline, particularly in the number of companies that are currently operating. However, for lingerie, at least, manufacturing turnover is fairly stable. Exports for corsetry and lingerie are increasing, although so too are imports, which far outweigh exports in this case. Low-cost production outsourced to the Far East still characterises the clothing market, and lingerie is no exception in this respect. Hosiery manufacturing has declined strongly over the review period, according to recent trade figures.

Many manufacturers are, therefore, struggling to maintain their margins, pressurised by retailers that are keen to keep down prices in an increasingly competitive retail distribution system. The high street now views lingerie as a strong fashion item and, as such, clothing manufacturers, supermarkets and even discounters are promoting their offerings against those of the dominant retailer, Marks & Spencer. This makes for an interesting but fierce arena to operate in. Some manufacturers of branded lingerie are responding by moving into retail, with some notable openings emerging in 2007 and 2008. It will be interesting to see how brands fare over the next few years with regard to strengthening their presence within the retail lingerie market.  
 

Executive Summary

1. Market Definition

Report Coverage

MARKET SECTORS

Corsetry

Lingerie

Hosiery

MARKET TRENDS

A Healthy, if Competitive, Market

Lingerie is Not Just for Special Occasions

Promotional Offers Still Dominate

Shapewear Creates Excitement

Hosiery Makes a Comeback

Manufacturers Dwindle as the Industry Looks to the Far East

Specialist Retail Businesses Emerge

ECONOMIC TRENDS

Population

Table 1: UK Resident Population Estimates by Sex (000), Mid-Years 2003-2007

Gross Domestic Product

Table 2: UK Gross Domestic Product at Current and Annual Chain-Linked Prices (£m), 2003-2007

Inflation

Table 3: UK Rate of Inflation (%), 2003-2007

Employment

Table 4: UK Rate of Employment by Sex (%), 1971, 1981, 1991, 2001 and 2006

Household Disposable Income

Table 5: UK Household Disposable Income Per Capita (£), 2003-2007

Retail Sales

MARKET POSITION

The UK

Table 6: Turnover and Gross Value Added of UK Manufacturers of Underwear and of Knitted and Crocheted Hosiery (£m), 2002-2006

Overseas

2. Market Size

The total Market

Table 7: The Total UK Corsetry, Lingerie and Hosiery Market by Sector by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 2004-2008

Figure 1: The Total UK Corsetry, Lingerie and Hosiery Market by Sector by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 2004-2008

BY MARKET SECTOR

Corsetry

Table 8: The UK Corsetry Sector by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp and %), 2004-2008

Lingerie

Table 9: The UK Lingerie Sector by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp and %), 2004-2008

Hosiery

Table 10: The UK Hosiery Sector by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp and %), 2004-2008

OVERSEAS TRADE

Imports

Table 11: UK Imports of Corsetry, Lingerie and Hosiery by Sector by Value at Current Prices (£m), 2007

Exports

Table 12: UK Exports of Corsetry, Lingerie and Hosiery by Sector by Value at Current Prices (£m), 2007

3. Industry Background

RECENT HISTORY

Number of Companies

Clothing Manufacturers

Table 13: Number of UK VAT-Based Enterprises Engaged in the Manufacture of Wearing Apparel, and in the Dressing and Dyeing of Fur by Turnover Sizeband (£000), 2006 and 2007

Underwear Manufacturers

Table 14: Number of UK VAT-Based Enterprises Engaged in the Manufacture of Underwear by Turnover Sizeband (£000), 2006 and 2007

Employment

Clothing Manufacturers

Table 15: Number of UK VAT-Based Enterprises Engaged in the Manufacture of Wearing Apparel, and in the Dressing and Dyeing of Fur by Employment Sizeband (number of employees), 2006 and 2007

Underwear Manufacturers

Table 16: Number of UK VAT-Based Enterprises Engaged in the Manufacture of Underwear by Employment Sizeband (number of employees), 2006 and 2007

REGIONAL VARIATIONS in the marketplace

Clothing Manufacturers

Table 17: Number of UK VAT-Based Enterprises Engaged in the Manufacture of Wearing Apparel, and in the Dressing and Dyeing of Fur by Government Office Region, 2006 and 2007

Underwear Manufacturers

Table 18: Number of UK VAT-Based Enterprises Engaged in the Manufacture of Underwear by Government Office Region, 2006 and 2007

Distribution

How Robust is the Market?

Legislation

KEY TRADE ORGANISATIONS

Association of Suppliers to the British Clothing Industry

British Apparel & Textile Confederation

British Knitting & Clothing Export Council

British Textile Machinery Association

East Midlands Textiles Association Ltd

4. Competitor Analysis

The Marketplace

Market Leaders

Lingerie Manufacturers

Table 19: Selected Leading Lingerie Manufacturers by Turnover (£000), 2006/2007

Courtaulds (UK) Ltd

Company Structure

Current and Future Developments

Financial Results

Crystal Martin Holdings Ltd

Company Structure

Current and Future Developments

Financial Results

DBApparel UK Ltd

Company Structure

Current and Future Developments

Financial Results

Intimas Group PLC

Company Structure

Current and Future Developments

Financial Results

Unity Brands Ltd

Company Structure

Current and Financial Developments

Financial Results

Lingerie Retailers

Agent Provocateur Ltd

Company Structure

Current and Future Developments

Financial Results

Ann Summers/Knickerbox

Company Structure

Current and Future Developments

Financial Results

Bhs Ltd

Current and Future Developments

Financial Results

Figleaves.com (Figleaves Global Trading Ltd)

Company Structure

Current and Future Developments

Financial Results

La Senza Ltd

Company Structure

Current and Future Developments

Financial Results

Marks and Spencer PLC

Company Structure

Current and Future Developments

Financial Results

Other Retailers

Myla

OUTSIDE SUPPLIERS

Textiles for Lingerie

Textile Manufacturing Machinery

Computing Systems and Information Technology

MARKETING ACTIVITY

Main Media Advertising Expenditure

Table 20: Main Media Advertising Expenditure on Underwear and Lingerie, Sleep Wear, and Stockings and Tights by Brand (£000), Year Ending March 2008

Exhibitions and Trade Shows

5. Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities and Threats

STRENGTHS

WEAKNESSES

OPPORTUNITIES

THREATS

6. Buying Behaviour

Consumer Penetration and Profile

Purchasing of Lingerie

By Women

Table 21: Women's Purchasing of Lingerie in the Past 12 Months — Penetration (% of women), 2007

By Men

Table 22: Men's Purchasing of Lingerie in the Past 12 Months — Penetration (% of men), 2007

By Age

Table 23: Purchasing of Lingerie in the Past 12 Months — Purchasing Profile and Penetration by Age (% of adults), 2007

By Social Grade

Table 24: Purchasing of Lingerie in the Past 12 Months — Purchasing Profile and Penetration by Social Grade (% of adults), 2007

By Expenditure Bracket

Spending Patterns for Women

Table 25: Women's Purchasing of Lingerie — Penetration by Expenditure Bracket (% of women), 2007

Spending Patterns for Men

Table 26: Men's Purchasing of Lingerie — Penetration by Expenditure Bracket (% of men), 2007

Women's Use of Hosiery

By Age

Table 27: Women's Use of Tights, Stockings and Hold-Ups in the Past 12 Months — Purchasing Profile and Penetration by Age (% of women), 2007

By Frequency of Use

Table 28: Frequency of Use of Tights, Stockings and Hold-Ups by Women — Penetration (% of women), 2007

7. Current Issues

Brands versus Private Label

Size Issues Benefit The Corsetry Industry

Body-Size technology

8. The Global Market

The total Market

Major trends

Consumer Behaviour

The Future

9. Forecasts

Introduction

Inflation

Table 29: Forecast UK Rate of Inflation (%), 2008-2012

Gross Domestic Product

Table 30: Forecast UK Growth in Gross Domestic Product in Real Terms (%), 2008-2012

Unemployment

Table 31: Forecast Actual Number of Unemployed Persons in the UK (million), 2008-2012

Population

Table 32: Projected UK Female Population by Age (000), 2009-2013

Forecasts 2009 to 2013

Table 33: The Forecast Total UK Corsetry, Lingerie and Hosiery Market by Sector by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 2009-2013

Figure 2: The Forecast Total UK Corsetry, Lingerie and Hosiery Market by Sector by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 2009-2013

Corsetry

Table 34: The Forecast UK Corsetry Sector by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 2009-2013

Lingerie

Table 35: The Forecast UK Lingerie Sector by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 2009-2013

Hosiery

Table 36: The Forecast UK Hosiery Sector by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 2009-2013

Market Growth

Figure 3: Growth in the Total UK Corsetry, Lingerie and Hosiery Market by Sector by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 2004-2013

The Future

An Exciting Industry

Pricing

Diversity

10. Company Profiles

Agent Provocateur Ltd

Ann Summers Ltd

Crystal Martin Holdings Ltd

Dbapparel Uk Ltd

Figleaves Global trading Ltd

Intimas Group Plc

La Senza Ltd

Marks and Spencer Plc

11. Further Sources

Associations

General Sources

Government Publications

Bisnode Sources